Tirta Gangga

I can't help but to think that Beaudelaire, Monet, Rimbaud and Salvador Dali would have loved this place...

   

When entering the water gardens of Tirta Gangga, one steps not only into a place of tranquil beauty, harmony and serenity but also into the complex world of Balinese Cosmology and traditional architecture, where everything is placed according to the Tri Loka: Bhur (the world of demons), Buwah (the world of man) and Swah (the world of gods) and oriented in the axis Kaja-Kelod, Kaja being towards the mountain (pure) and Kelod being towards the sea (impure) as well as the sunrise-sunset (east-west) axis.
In applying these principles, the place created is in balance with the universe and harmony with man and nature.

Tirta Gangga, which belongs to the royal family of Karangasem, was created in 1948 on the site of a holy spring by the last Raja, Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem. He was a born architect and loved to design and build wonderful water gardens (the other one being Taman Ujung), not far from the town of Amlapura.

The king with his wife and daughter 1923 

During the eruption of Mt Agung and the earthquakes that followed for several months in 1963, the place was destroyed and fell in desuetude for a long time. 

This was certainly not because the royal family did not care but because, there was not enough money to rebuild Tirta Gangga to its past splendor.
Through the years, the place has regained its beauty as a result of the passion and dedication of Widoere Djelantik who is one of the king's grand-children and the son of the beloved Dr A.A. Madé Djelantik who was not only a great doctor and adventurer but an accomplished artist as well. He illustrated a delightful book about his life called "Against all odds, the strange destiny of a Balinese Prince" by Idanna Pucci. I love this book, full of stories of the prince's childhood and tales of his peregrinations through the world, it is inspirational and just beautiful.  

The magnificent Banyan tree above the Holy Spring and Temple

The Holy Spring Temple

The Nawa Sanga Fountain is surrounded by eight sculptures of the gods representing the sacred eight directions, it can be seen from any location in Tirta Gangga.

The bridge to the Demon Island

The Demon Island, lined with eight small ponds in the center, is flanked by eight statues on each side and one at the end for a total of seventeen.

These statues have held a strong fascination on me since the first time I saw them, I always wondered what they could represent. There are so strange and fantastic, unlike anything I have ever seen and beyond any rational comprehension. They transport me in a world unseen, one I have never entered but know to be real. 

It took me several visits with the book, "Balians: Traditional Healers of Bali" to understand that some of them were related to the magical drawings in the book. You can read more about the statues here as well if you are interested.

Sang Hyang Angga Sakti (left) Sang Hyang Bhuta (right)

Magical drawings can only be used by Balians who have received permission from the gods and know the appropriate prayers. They are a fascinating insight in Balinese beliefs.

The image of Sang Hyang Angga Sakti drawn on white cloth and placed above the entrance gate protects from witchcraft.

 The image of Sang Hyang Bhuta drawn on cloth and placed in one's pocket helps block gun barrels during war and protects from enemies.

Sang Hyang Loka Nata (left) Sang Hyang Jugil Mingmang (right)

Tirta Gangga  is located on the road towards Amed, past Amlapura and Padang Karta. It is opened every day and at night since there is a hotel and restaurant ,"Tirta Ayu", on the grounds. You should go there if you are in the area, it is one of the most beautiful gardens in the world, and like many places in Bali, it is a magical and will capture your heart.